Firstly I went to Tatras and Cracow and enjoyed the south. Next I went to a friend to Olsztyn and stayed a couple of days with her.
This is Ermland, Warmia in Polish, one of historic provinces of Poland which always crushed with Teutonic Order, later taken by Prussian Kingdom to be finally considered a part of Heimat by Bismarck who unified Germany - which was inherited by the Nazi era and considered part of Germany by them too.
This all was named Ost Preussen by Bismarck. But it is a country of constant struggle between identities, economic ideas and ways of life for many centuries.
Historically Preussen - Prusy in Polish was inhabited by Prussian tribes which bothered Mazovian Polish Dukes. Duke Conrad in 1226 thought he has enough of constant raides from the North and invited teutonic Order to settle peace at the border with hopes that conquered lands will fall to his prey later on.
But this did not happen... greed and brutality took over. Teutonic Knights travelled dressed in white coats with black single big cross with their eyes covered in steel helmets causing fear among locals... with time financial triubutes were raised so much that local people strived for survival. And Teutonic Order did not have enough. It went south and east...south and east....raised taxes and exploited lands...until in 1380's Polish rulers had enough and thought it is time to settle the matters final.
King Jagiełło - The Jagiellon - married the King of Poland ( yes no mistake) Jadwiga and unified the state into first form of European Union of that era - Polish Lithuanian State. His joint forces made a huge battle with Teutons in 1410. Battle which you still have a chance to watch as it is being recreated every year for quite a while now.
On one warm July day he smashed Teuton Knights and had a chance to take over the whole Teuton State, but he only received a pledge from some dukes, did not decide to completely control Teutons which was a huge mistake...as they again started to exploit their region.
Bishops of Ermland unlike surrounding provinces pledged loyalty to Polish state and decided to bound their fate with the Polish Kingdom. Ermland became a refuge for persecuted peasants and city merchants who could not expand trade elsewhere. During that time Copernicus worked as a governor of the province for some years, and it is there where he observed the sky so accurate that he written down his ideas thanks to which Columbus travelled westwards to India...
Above: Lidzbark Castle
Later Teutons decided to put an end to a Teuton State, secularized themselves and became more and more protestant with time. When previous Teuton Lands were protestant Ermland remained catholic. Masuren and Ermland resemble long era of complicated history and unique local mentality...
Russian Soviet army had put an end to what it used to be in 1945. For several more years their Death Squadrons wandered around vast forests and lakes and made sure that no more local inhabitants really survived, no more who they pledged loyalty to. Those who had anything in common with Nazis fled westwards and to the sea, and those who stayed had done no harm to anyone...they stayed cause they either felt Polish ( yeah I know, weird... how do you feel it? But you do if you speak a slang for several centuries and you have glympses only of any identity) or they have done no harm to anyone.
Above: One of first printed versions of Copernicus research about the Earth, planets and the sun - to be admired at Lidzbark Castle
The Soviets installed their military bases and huge state owned agriculture industries. They have cancelled any private properties... maybe red brick Prussian style buildings were not beautiful but they were far more nice than a lot of commie era buildings which haunt till present days suddenly appearing in the middle of forest.
Ermland now is the land of mixed trails...on one hand young people emigrate seeing no hope. On the other hand old Germans buy properties to settle down during their retirement. Michelin produces tires, there is a good university too. But more investment is needed especially in towns and cities, because tourism is not enough- brings cash only to chosen lucky ones who bought lakeside properties... the vision is needed, new ideas and new hope.
Till then, enjoy the tale of Ermland in photos...
Above: Lidzbark Castle...years ago very rich, later plaundered by Swedish and others to be finally carefully taken care of by the passionate caretakers from the Museum of Mazury and Warmia
A must visit cities and objects in Ermland: Lidzbark Warmiński- castle and walk around the town, Dobre Miasto - medieval era churches, Olsztyn with cute old town and cathedral and Klubokawiarnia Filmowa (movie cafe), Frombork with cathedral and old town and many others... Most of the things to see either for free or for not more than 2- 3 € per ticket. Local transportation very decent, but it's better to take your own car because this area is full of treasures everywhere.
I am grateful for caretakers of the Museum of Warmia and Mazury at the castle of Lidzbark for answering our questions and giving us an insight to the past and present of the castle.
